Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 10

  Arte y EsperanzaARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-1455; www.arteyesperanza.com.ar; Balcarce 234; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  This store sells fair-trade, handmade products that include many made by Argentina’s indigenous craftspeople. Shop for silver jewelry, pottery, ceramics, textiles, mate gourds, baskets, woven bags, wood utensils and animal masks.

  El ColeccionistaMUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-0359; www.facebook.com/el.coleccionista.7/; Esmeralda 562; hnoon-7:30pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Lavalle)

  This music store has an eclectic selection of jazz, blues, salsa, Celtic and symphonic rock CDs. It will buy used musical instruments, so trade in that guitar or drum you’re tired of lugging around for a cool bandoneón (the accordion-esque instrument you’ll hear in every tango band). Staff members are knowledgeable.

  El AteneoBOOKS, MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4325-6801; Florida 340; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; bLínea B Florida)

  Branch of Buenos Aires’ landmark bookseller, which stocks a limited number of books in English.

  Cafes of Buenos Aires

  Thanks to its European heritage, Buenos Aires has a serious cafe culture. Porteños will spend hours dawdling over a single café cortado (espresso coffee with steamed milk) and a couple of medialunas (croissants), discussing the economy, politics and the latest soccer results. Indeed, everything from marriage proposals to revolutions have started at the local corner cafe.

  El Federal, Retiro | LONELY PLANET IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

  Some of BA’s cafes have been around for over 100 years, and many retain much of their original furniture, architectural details and rich atmosphere. They’ve always been the haunts of Argentina’s politicians, activists, intellectuals, artists and literary greats, including Jorge Luis Borges and Julio Cortázar.

  Café Tortoni, The Center | SERGIO SCHNITZLER /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

  Most cafes have adapted to modern times by serving alcohol as well as coffee, and many offer a surprisingly wide range of food and snacks; you can often order a steak as easily as a cortado. A few even double as bookstores or host live music, poetry readings and other cultural events. Serious coffee drinkers might be disappointed by the quality of the brew at BA’s most historic cafes (go there for the atmosphere, not the quality java). Luckily there are new coffee shops opening all the time serving flat whites to please even the most discerning; try LAB, Lattente or Coffee Town.

  Café con leche (coffee with milk) | RAW FILE / GETTY IMAGES ©

  Cafes have long hours and are usually open from early morning to late at night, making them easy places to visit. And visit you should; sipping coffee and hanging out at an atmospheric cafe, perhaps on some lazy afternoon, is part of the Buenos Aires experience. At the very least, they’re great for a late tea or a welcome break from all that walking you’ll be doing.

  Puerto Madero

  Sights

  Eating

  Entertainment

  Puerto Madero

  Neighborhood Top Five

  1Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur Escaping the city's hustle and bustle with a walk or bike ride through these wild wetlands where you can spot birds or perhaps a nutria or iguana.

  2Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Viewing the impressive private art collection at this contemporary museum.

  3Puente de la Mujer Seeing the bridge lit up at night and strolling around the cobbled lanes next to Puerto Madero's dikes.

  4Chila Eating lunch or dinner at an upscale restaurant with water views – it'll be pricey but good.

  5Faena Hotel + Universe Splashing out on a night at this unique hotel; see if there's a current exhibition at the Faena Arts Center and catch a performance of Rojo Tango.

  Explore: Puerto Madero

  Put on your most comfortable walking shoes, because you'll be on your feet all day here. You can start walking pretty much anywhere and make a big loop around the dikes. There are a few interesting museums to see here, including the Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat (also called Museo Fortabat). This shiny, glassy museum is in a cutting-edge building and art lovers shouldn’t miss it. Another quirky place is the Museo Fragata Sarmiento. Walk the plank, pay your ticket and explore all the fascinating holds of this naval vessel. The Corbeta Uruguay, a couple of blocks away, is another similar 'ship' museum. In between these two is the Puente de la Mujer – a pedestrian bridge that you'll be tempted to cross.

  When you get toward the south, cut east on R Vera Peñaloza and look for the elegant fountain called Fuente de las Nereidas. Just beyond is the southern entrance to the marshy Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, which offers the only real nature walk (or bike ride) in central BA. It's a peaceful place full of reedy lagoons, wildlife and dirt paths, and you can get a close-up look at the muddy waters of the Río de la Plata. The reserve is a sharp contrast to the upscale lofts, restaurants and hotels nearby, and thankfully it’s available to everyone for no cost at all – just be sure you're not there on a Monday, when it's closed.

  Local Life

  AFood stands The road running parallel to the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur is lined with mobile food truck parrillas. Mingle with office workers on their lunch break, taxi drivers at 3am or post-clubbing revelers at day break as you eat your cheap choripán (sausage sandwiches) or bondiola (pork) sandwiches.

  AJogging Join locals for a run around the Reserva Ecológica – or a stroll, if that's more your thing.

  APicture perfect In Parque Mujeres Argentinas (the green landscaped space between the docks and the Costanera) you'll no doubt see dressed-up, heavily styled teenage girls starring in their own professional photo shoots. These are 15-year-olds celebrating their quinceañera.

  Getting There & Away

  ABus Buses 64, 126 and 152 run along LN Alem/Paseo Colón, which gets you within three blocks of Puerto Madero.

  ASubte The closest Subte stops are LN Alem (Línea B) and the end-of-line stations of Líneas A, D and E, which terminate at Plaza de Mayo.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  If you want to explore every corner of Puerto Madero and the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, it's much easier on a bike. Hire one from a bike-tour company such as Biking Buenos Aires or Urban Biking, or pick up one of the free yellow city bikes.

  Best Places to Eat

  A Chila

  A i Central Market

  A Le Grill

  Best Museums

  A Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat

  A Fragata Sarmiento

  A Corbeta Uruguay

  TOP SIGHT

  Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

  The beautiful marshy land of this nature preserve makes it a popular site for sunny weekend outings, when picnickers, cyclists and families come for fresh air and spectacular river views. If you're lucky, you may spot a river turtle, iguana or nutria (semi-aquatic rodent); birdwatchers will adore the 300-plus bird species that pause to rest here.

  Murky Past

  During the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983, access to the Buenos Aires waterfront was limited, as the area was diked and filled with sediments dredged from the Río de la Plata. While plans for a new satellite city across from the port stalled, trees, grasses, birds and rodents took advantage and colonized this low-lying, 350-hectare area that mimics the ecology of the Delta del Paraná.

  Nature Lovers' Paradise

  In 1986 the area was declared an ecological reserve. Mysterious arson fires, thought to have been started by those with financial interests in the prime real estate, have occasionally been set. But permanent scars haven’t remained – this beautifully lush marshy land survives hardily, and the reserve has become a popular site for outings and walks. Bring binoculars if you're a birder – ducks, swans, woodpeckers, parakeets, hawks, flycatchers and cardinals are just a few of the some 300 species of feathered critters that can be spotted here. Further in at the eastern shoreline of the reserve you can get a
close-up view of the Río de la Plata’s muddy waters – a rare sight in Buenos Aires.

  Don't Miss

  AWalking the trails

  ABirdwatching

  ABike riding

  AViews of the Río de la Plata

  Practicalities

  A MAP GOOGLE MAP

  A%011-4893-1588

  Avisitasguiadas_recs@buenosaires.gob.ar

  AAv Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550

  Ah8am-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Oct

  Ag2

  BJANKA KADIC / AGEFOTOSTOCK ©

  1Sights

  Puerto Madero's impressive art galleries, exhibition spaces and quirky museums are all within walking distance of each other around the picturesque waterfront. The striking Puente de la Mujer bridge is difficult to miss, and is even more beautiful when it's lit up at night. Allow plenty of time to explore the neighborhood's best sight, the vast Resérva Ecologica Costanera Sur.

  Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur Top Sight

  MAP GOOGLE MAP

  Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de FortabatMUSEUM

  (Museo Fortabat; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4310-6600; www.coleccionfortabat.org.ar; Olga Cossettini 141; adult/child AR$80/40; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun, tours in Spanish 3pm & 5pm; bLínea B Alem)

  Prominently located at the northern end of Puerto Madero is this stunning art museum showcasing the private collection of the late billionaire, philanthropist and socialite Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat. There are works by Antonio Berni and Raúl Soldi, as well as pieces by international artists including Dalí, Klimt, Rodin and Chagall; look for Warhol’s colorful take on Fortabat herself in the family portrait gallery.

  The building was designed by renowned Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly, and is constructed from steel, glass and concrete – the last a most appropriate material considering its patron (Fortabat was the major stockholder of Argentina’s largest cement company).

  Faena Arts CenterARTS CENTER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4010-9233; www.faena.com/faena-art-center; Aime Paine 1169; admission varies; hvary depending on exhibition; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  This very large, airy art space – in a beautifully renovated flour mill – highlights the contemporary dreams of local and international artists and designers. If your visit coincides with a show, you should expect cutting-edge exhibits that utilize these spaces to the maximum – think rope nets hanging from the ceiling or light pyramids reaching for the sky. Check the website for upcoming shows; when there is no exhibition the center is closed.

  Fragata SarmientoMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4334-9386; Dique 3; AR$10; h10am-7pm; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  Over 23,000 Argentine naval cadets and officers have trained aboard this 85m sailing vessel, which traveled around the world 37 times between 1899 and 1938. On board are detailed records of its lengthy voyages, a gallery of its commanding officers, plenty of nautical items including old uniforms, and even the stuffed remains of Lampazo (the ship’s pet dog). Peek into the ship’s holds, galley and engine room and note the hooks where sleeping hammocks were strung up.

  Built in Birkenhead, England, in 1897 at a cost of £125,000, this impeccably maintained ship never participated in combat.

  View of Dique 3 and Puerto Madero’s cityscape | DMITRY PICHUGIN / 500PX ©

  Corbeta UruguayMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4314-1090; Dique 4; AR$10; h10am-7pm; bLínea B Alem)

  This 46m-long military ship conducted surveys along Argentina’s coast and supplied bases in Antarctica until it was decommissioned in 1926, after 52 years of service. Displayed below the main deck are interesting relics from Antarctica expeditions, such as crampons and snowshoes, along with historical photos and nautical items. Check out the tiny kitchen, complete with mate (tea-like beverage) supplies (of course).

  Puente de la MujerBRIDGE

  (Women’s Bridge; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dique 3; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  The striking Puente de la Mujer is Puerto Madero’s signature monument. Unveiled in 2001, this gleaming-white structure spans Dique 3 and resembles a sharp fishhook or even a harp – it’s supposed to represent a couple dancing the tango. Designed by acclaimed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and mostly built in Spain, this 160m-long pedestrian bridge cost US$6 million and rotates 90 degrees to allow water traffic to pass.

  Fuente de las NereidasFOUNTAIN

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1600; g2)

  This marble fountain dating from 1903 by the controversial Argentine sculptor Lola Mora was originally intended for Plaza de Mayo, but was considered distasteful and placed instead in a less prominent location, on the corner of Av Alem and Perón. It was later moved to its current location in Puerto Madero.

  PRACTICAL TIP

  VISITING THE RESERVA ECOLóGICA

  ATours are given on the last Friday of the month at 10am.

  AMonthly Friday night full-moon tours are also available (call for latest schedule).

  AThere are water fountains near the entrances to the reserve but nowhere to buy food and drinks; bring your own.

  ATo learn more about the nature around you, book a tour with Seriema Nature Tours.

  5Eating

  Most of Puerto Madero's restaurants are upscale and expensive, and many sport covered outdoor terraces with views of the nearby diques (dikes). You won’t get the best bang for your buck in this elegant strip and the cuisine is more traditional than inspired, but it’s the location here that counts.

  i Central MarketARGENTINE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5775-0330; www.icentralmarket.com.ar; Av Macacha Güemes 302; mains AR$90-160; h8am-10pm; W; bLínea B Alem)

  Especially pleasant on sunny days is this modern restaurant on the waterfront – the tables on the promenade are great for people-watching. Order espresso and scones for breakfast, and panini (Italian-style sandwiches) or contemporary Argentine dishes for lunch. There's also more casual seating at the gourmet deli, plus a kitchenwares shop to poke around.

  i Fresh MarketARGENTINE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5775-0335; www.icentralmarket.com.ar; Olga Cossettini 1175; mains AR$90-160; h8am-10pm; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  It’s not on the water, but a sidewalk table does just fine at this upscale cafe-restaurant. Choose a gourmet sandwich or salad, and be sure to peek at the luscious dessert case. Its sister restaurant, i Central Market, is a few blocks away.

  oChilaMODERN ARGENTINE$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-6067; www.chilaweb.com.ar; Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160; 3-course menu AR$1300, 7-course menu AR$1800, not incl drinks; h8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  Some of Buenos Aires’ best and most original cuisine is created by award-winning chef Soledad Nardelli. Her three- and seven-course, haute-cuisine dishes utilize only the best seasonal ingredients, and the restaurant also works closely with quality producers. Expect beautifully presented food, a professional staff and – if you’re lucky – a table with a romantic view of the docks.

  Le GrillPARRILLA$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4331-0454; www.legrill.com.ar; Alicia Moreau de Justo 876; mains AR$260-490; h12:30-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm-1am Sat, 12:30-3.30pm Sun; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  No surprise – grilled meat is the specialty at this sophisticated parrilla. Go for the rack of lamb, suckling pig or Kobe beef. There are a few seafood and pasta dishes for noncarnivores. Try to reserve a table in the atrium, with a full view of Puente de la Mujer.

  La Parolaccia TrattoriaITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-1679; www.laparolaccia.com; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 1052; set lunch AR$255-297, mains AR$200-350; hnoon-1am; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo)

  This Italian eatery specializes in homemade pastas. Reserve one of the few tables with a water view, then enjoy sweet-potato gnocchi, gorgonzola ravioli or cappelletti (a small stuffed pasta) in four cheeses.

  A nearby branch, La Parolaccia del Mare ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-0063
; www.laparolaccia.com.ar; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 1170; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-1am Mon-Sat, noon-1am Sun; bLínea A Plaza de Mayo), specializes in seafood.

  A FAILED PORT

  Buenos Aires' waterfront was the subject of controversy in the mid-19th century, when competing commercial interests began to fight over the location of a modernized port for Argentina’s burgeoning international commerce. Two ideas came to light. One was to widen and deepen the channel of the Riachuelo to port facilities at La Boca, which indeed happened as planned. The other was proposed by Eduardo Madero, a wealthy exporter with strong political ties and solid financial backing. Madero proposed transforming the city’s mudflats into a series of modern basins and harbors consistent with the aspirations and ambitions of a cosmopolitan elite. This also occurred, but not quite as he had planned.

  By the time of its completion in 1898 (four years after Madero’s death), Puerto Madero had exceeded its budget and Madero himself had come under scrutiny. Suspicions arose from Madero’s attempts to buy up all the landfill in the area and from his links to politicians who had acquired nearby lands likely to increase in value. And the practical side of the scheme didn’t go so well either. By 1910 the amount of cargo was already too great for the new port, and poor access to the rail terminus at Plaza Once made things even worse. New facilities in a rejuvenated La Boca partly assuaged these problems, but congressional actions failed to solve the major issues – until the 1926 completion of Retiro’s Puerto Nuevo.